JJ McWilliam and Junee
John James, or JJ as he is referred to now, was the fourth child and third son born to Samuel on the 17th June 1868 in the Sale district of Victoria. On the 20th July 1892, he married Elizabeth Aitken Dewer, domestic servant whose birth place was Markinch, Scotland, and was at the time, a resident of Beechworth and had emigrated in 1886. They were married by the Rev, Leonard William Lee in the Independent Church at Beechworth. Elizabeth was the second daughter of the late James Dewar, stone mason, and Janet Aitken Dalrymple who, with her son Robert, had just emigrated and joined her daughters at Beechworth.
Over a period of twenty one years they were to have a family of four boys and four girls. Jessie May, 29th April 1893 and Lawrence John Roy, 26th November 1894 were born at Sunnyside, Corowa. The next five were born at Junee, Maude Elizabeth, 14th July 1896; Douglas Lyle, 16th September 1901; Dorothy, 5th December 1903; Keith Stewart, 29th August 1908 and Joyce Thelma, 8th April 1910. The youngest, Glen Maxwell was born in Sydney, 3rd February 1914. It is thought that JJ made the move to Junee around December 1895 before he took up a Colonial Wine licence at the “Wine Vaults”, Broadway. (The old Junee road) His licence was granted in the Wagga Wagga licencing court and was to run from 10th January 1896, for 10 years, renewed annually. JJ had only accepted nomination to the committee of the Corowa and District Vine and Fruit Growers Association in November 1895 but resigned in April 1896 stating he was now a resident of Junee.
Following Samuel’s departure from Corowa in 1891, Sunnyside was left in the hands of brothers, John James and Thomas. In March 1894, the diary of a Mr. S F Anderson, New Zealand’s Government Viticulturalist, who visited Corowa, reported that
"Mr Herbert Lindeman took me to see this (Sunnyside) vineyard and introduced me to Mr McWilliam who had been a four year apprentice of his. It was with some pride that Mr Lindeman mentioned this as McWilliams winery and cellar (if I may call it so) done him credit, as well as the wines made by him. Although with over a hundred acres of vines his press house and rough galvanized iron shed turned out as fine a natural wines as Mr Lindeman, and he did not hesitate to acknowledge that all his knowledge was obtained from Mr Lindeman. Mr Lindeman on leaving said he was coming up again with a view of tasting and purchasing all McWilliams wine. That spoke for him as Mr L. doesn't purchase anything inferior."
"Of course McWilliams sold his wine after keeping it for a few months, but the quality of it was thoroughly established before it went out. Mr. Lindeman’s ordinary price was 1/6 per gallon and £4 - £5 per ton of grapes in purchasing from growers."
“On talking the matter over with McWilliams he said much the same thing as Mr Lindeman, cleanliness and closely watching the wine at fermentation seems to be the principal thing. What struck me about this place - was for a few pounds certainly not more than £80, about the cost of his shed, he managed to get along with that accommodation. Of course his casks were as good as Mr L.'s but his vats were very temporary. His press was also on wheels”
The McWilliam in charge of the cellar and vineyard was almost certainly Samuel's third son, John James - although his younger brother Thomas was also active at Sunnyside when not superintending the McWilliam Bros deep lead venture on the Corowa gold-fields. Both brothers would maintain amicable relations with the Lindemans and Thomas was also involved until he left for the Boer war, returning in 1902, he subsequently worked as a blender for Lindeman’s wines and later worked for Dr Fiacshi at his Mudgee cellars, held a wine licence in Bathurst, worked at Saxonvale in the Hunter Valley and finally before his death in 1926, worked again for his brother JJ at the Sydney, Alberta St. Cellars.
JJ and Thomas’s wines were not only sold to Lindeman’s wines but also sold from a wine shop on the property following JJ’s successful application for a Colonial Wine Licence in 1891 which was renewed annually until 1896. His brother, William, held one in Wagga Wagga at the same time, possibly with the aim of establishing a trade for Sunnyside wines independent of the hotels.
Junee had become the principal rail depot and junction to the western Riverina in 1883, much to the disappointment of Wagga Wagga. Arriving in Junee, JJ and family took up residence in the upstairs living quarters of a shop leased from the town’s publican and land developer, William Crawley.
The “Junee Southern Cross” newspaper advertised JJ’s wines in December 1897 and being available at the “Wine Vaults”, Old Junee road, Junee.
JJ and his brother Thomas entered Sunnyside wines in the 1897 National competition for district wines. They took 3rd prize ahead of Lindeman’s Corowa. Thomas was also entering Sunnyside wines in local shows in his own name and in 1898 he was awarded the principal trophy of the show, “a beautiful lamp” presented by Sydney merchants, Westphal & Clark, for a sweet unfortified white wine. The Junee Southern Cross of 17th September 1898 reported that “At the Albury Show, Mr Thomas McWilliam of Sunnyside, Corowa, was awarded first prize for Red Red wine (sweet), beating Messrs. Caldwell and company who were awarded second prize”.
The following year, one of JJ’s Junee wines won first prize in the Dry White, 1899 vintage class, of the Corowa show ahead of W. Chambers of Rutherglen and T. McWilliam of Sunnyside, Corowa. A report in the “Junee Southern Cross and Coolamon Advertiser” of the 24th September 1898 reported that JJ McWilliam had won first places in both Red and White dry wine classes of the Junee Show against at least two other competitors.
JJ’s interest in future grape growing in the Junee district is indicated in an article published in The Junee Southern Cross of 24th August 1898, wherein it referred to his negotiations with a Mr Heffernan and the possible leasing of 107 acres of his “Millbank” property. He had previously rented property from a Mrs. Liddens at “Silverwood” farm, about 5 miles south of Junee between the Harefield road and the railway line. This property had previously been planted by William Liddens and may have been the inspiration for JJ’s future plantings in the area. William Liddens had died in 1896 and this gave JJ the opportunity to make his first wines from the district. The “Junee Democrat” of the 22nd August 1899, reported that at the Corowa show in 1899, he was awarded first prize for his Junee made dry white, 1899 vintage, and that the wine was from grapes from the Liddens’ “Silverwood” property.
His successful application to the Wagga Wagga Licencing Bench for a Colonial wine licence in Junee, from 7th January 1901, as reported in the “Junee Democrat” the following day, seems a logical extension of the aim in further establishing outlets independent of the hotels.
His potential lease with Heffernan may not have eventuated as The Junee Southern Cross of 10 February 1903 indicated that he now had a vineyard and farm within 2 miles of Junee along the Harefield road which was planted 3 years before. The extensive article describes in details the layout and plantings on the property.
“The property is so planned that a site has been left in the centre for dwelling house. Just inside the (west boundary) fence is a row of Japanese plum trees, which this year have borne a splendid crop of fruit. An opening at right angles forms an avenue leading to the site for the house. On each side of the avenue are planted various varieties of orange trees including the celebrated Washington Navel and the Beauty of the Glen Retreat mandarin; and there is a little way back from the road a rustic arch, over which grape vines have been trained. The effect is very charming. The area towards Harefield has been laid out with table grape vines, and at first glance one wonders where the fruit is. Headed low, the leaves of the vines cover the heavy bunches of fruit and shade them and the stem of the vine also from the glare of the sun. Despite the aridity of the season the vines have born excellently good crops, in some cases numbers of very heavy bunches can be seen on the vines. The varieties include about 30, chief of which are Gordo Blanco, Champion Muscat, Black Muscat, Raisin de Dames, Ladies Finger, Uliade, Black Tuck, Black Champion, Red Prince, Black Prince, Chaisalis ,Virert, Doradilla, Centennial and others. The principal feature of the orchard behind this part of the vineyard are the peaches. Treated in a similar manner to the vines, the fruit can hardly be seen till the leaves are turned back when the size, beauty and luscious appearance of the fruit makes one's mouth water. The principal varieties are Elberta, one strongly recommended by experts for canning purposes, Aylett seedling, Globe, Shangia ,&c. For so young trees the crop is a particularly fine one."
"A garden has already been made around the home site, and the roses, which include the favourite Marschel Niel, Cloth of Gold, Celine, Forester, Crimson Climber and others are growing splendidly, whilst the flowers and flowering shrubs grace the beds. All look to be doing better than in many gardens in town where the plants have the advantage of daily watering. Apple, persimmons, pear, loquat, fig and nectarine trees are also planted, and doing splendidly. On the Junee side a large area is cropped with wine grapes, and there is a well established nursery for the rooted vines which together with some young fruit trees, are to be planted out during the forthcoming season, the land being already ploughed and partially prepared for their reception. Mr McWilliam has also made arrangements to purchase the adjoining 30 acres to extend his operations.”
“The value of the work done by the enterprising proprietor can hardly be overestimated. To the district and the town it means the nucleus for the establishment in the future of the wine-making, raisin-drying, and fruit canning industries here. If others would only follow in Mr McWilliam's footsteps, in modern systems of fruit growing, without a doubt there would be a large field for the profitable employment of many hands. Apart from such benefit, it might be mentioned that Mr McWilliam paid £10 per acre for the land, and property owners must realize that when land at that distance from town can command such a price, other land nearer has its value enhanced.”
At the time of this article, JJ was only the lessee but on the 8th August 1903, he purchased the 31 acres from Isabella Mary Stevens and probably had a lease on the adjoining 26 acres which was finally purchased from Ms. Stevens on the 13th March 1906. By this time he had completed his “Mark View” winery.
A further article in the “Junee Southern Cross” of 20th November 1906 details his property
“At the present time Mr. J. J. McWillliam's vineyard opposite the old show grounds is showing to great advantage, and presents an object lesson to all interested in the land. Everything is in fine order; the vines look healthy and strong, with indications of a record yield. On every available inch of territory the genius of Mr. McWilliam may be seen; he has everything marked and planned out for the future, and when all his little plans and ideas materialise, "Mark View" will be one of the finest properties in the State. It is intended to build a fine large house in front of the present cosy dwelling, runners have been planted here and there to create cosy little nooks, on the southern side of the house, land has been marked out for a tennis court, with a good large pavilion close handy; some new ideas are to be worked into this court, ideas which will be of immense advantage to the players. The cellar is some distance away from the house, and connected with it by the telephone. The water will be laid on to the whole property from large underground tanks at the rear of the cellar. The cellar itself is a fine solid structure, and when finished there will be ample floor space for very many years to come. Everything that has been done is permanent, and as the contemplated improvements are put in, nothing will have to be pulled down. It has been said by experts that the quality of the wine produced by Mr. McWilliam is second to none in the State, and this opinion is borne out by the many trophies carried off by it at shows all over the Commonwealth. The piece of land Mr. McWilliam has chosen is capable of producing anything, and the immense crops of the past will be exceeded by those of the future; for instance, 500 gallons of wine to the acre were got last year, and this year one piece of land is expected to yield 700 gallons to the acre. The crop of grapes is extremely heavy, and although a little damage has in places been done, the gross yield will not suffer to any material extent. The class of buildings on the place are both novel and original; the walls are composed partly of refuse from the gasworks, and form a substance as hard almost as steel; it makes beautifully clean firm walls, which white ants or other vermin will not touch. Looking out from the building above the cellar, one has an excellent view; rows of vines stand out like a regiment of soldiers, almost every house in Junee in visible, and the country can be seen all out towards Millbank. Although Mr. McWilliam has such a large area of vines in, other fruits suitable to the district are by no means neglected. Peach, pear, plum, apricot, orange, lemon, and other trees get attention, and last but by no means least, the almond tree. Mr. McWilliam considers the almond the most profitable of all trees; it is easily grown, inexpensive to work, gives a big yield, and there is always a good market. Mr. McWilliam is to be congratulated on the way he has turned his grass paddock into a magnificent orchard; it has been accomplished only by hard work, pluck and perseverance, and a through knowledge of the business. He has, luckily, had the assistance of Mrs. McWilliam, who is thoroughly practical and well understands what fruits are best adapted to their lands”.
A major article appeared in the “Town and Country Journal” of June 13th, 1906 detailing an interview with John James McWilliam.
The Mark View Vineyard, Junee
About a mile and a quarter from Junee is the vineyard of Mr. J.J. McWilliam. Situated upon the slope of a gentle rise, midst picturesque surroundings. It is one of the beauty spots of the district, and a most interesting place in which a visitor can spend a few pleasant hours.
Driving along the pretty avenue, bordered on either side by young orange trees, now rendering the air fragrant with the perfume of their blossom, we passed the owner's substantial, but only partially completed, residence, and continued our journey towards a fine building bearing upon the front, in bold letters the legend "Mark View Cellars, J.J. McWilliam, Advance Australia". Here we were fortunate in finding the proprietor, who was superintending the work of his employees. He assured, however, that he could spare time for a chat, and forthwith proceeded to show us over his property.
A Record Crop
"It is only 60 acres in extent, and my operations, in consequence, are very much cramped," he said, half apologetically. I have 50 acres under vines, and the remainder under grass - 26 acres of vines are bearing, and 21 acres coming on. I could do with another hundred acres nicely, and would put it all under almond trees (I have 300, as it is), for there is money in them, you know, £25 to £30 per acre being easily realisable, nevertheless, in spite of the small size of my property, I made 4,400 gallons of wine, and sold 2000 cases of grapes last year, and that is pretty nearly a record for the Riverina district - I mean at per acre of course".
"Have you been very long here?"
"Only six years," replied Mr. McWilliam, "but I've been wine-making all my life - began my career under Mr. Lindeman, and do not know a better man in the business in Australia but come for a walk around. This patch of vines, about 10 acres in extent.”
"I am devoting entirely to raisins: the species are Gordo Blancos and Sultaneas, and while I am on the subject, I may as well tell you that I believe this district to be the finest in Australia for raisin-growing."
Advantages of Cultivation
"You manifestly believe in fallowing, Mr. McWilliam," 1 remarked, noticing the newly turned furrows. "Certainly I do," he answered, "it is the first and last principle to be observed in growing fruit, and everything else. Work the ground continually, and keep it as fine as powder, and good results will certainly be obtained. I have heard our ground termed 'drunken soil', because it will absorb so much moisture, but the sun, given a broken surface, will draw the water up from a great depth and give everything a chance to flourish.
"I am scarcely original in my ideas," continued Mr. McWilliam, "and I admit I would like to turn about 2000 sheep in here to eat off the grass, and, if they took a fancy to a few vine leaves, I would not grumble”
We now paused outside the cellar building and our host pointed out that it was constructed, with the exception of the roof, entirely of a pise, composed of shale refuse from the local gas works, mixed with sandy soil. "Perhaps the best test of its suitability," Mr. McWilliam explained "is that the floor absorbs no moisture, and it has set as hard as granite, and therefore the composition is superior to bricks.
" Behind the building is a fine, underground tank, on the rise of a hill one of a series to be excavated later - the bottom being level with the cellar floor, so that the water can be run down by gravitation, and acts very conveniently for cleaning purposes”.
"In this cellar," said our host, "1 have stored, at the present moment, almost 10,000 gallons of wine. I foresaw some years ago that light dry wines would sooner or later be in demand, and have been making a study of them accordingly. I can also claim having been largely instrumental in educating public taste in that direction, and I will take this opportunity of saying that I was keenly disappointed at not having been afforded an opportunity of sending samples to Canada. Sir William Lyne had charge of the arrangements, you will remember, and it was very unfair to the growers that preference should have been given largely to firms simply dealing in wines. It, however, happens that I have very little wine for export, the local demand being pretty well as much as I can supply, but I do think that the industry generally has a right to expect fair play.”
Quality of Mark View Wines.
We now tasted some very fine light clarets, hocks, burgundies, sherries, etc., varying in age from one month to something over three years, and it was very interesting to note the effects maturing had exercised at the different periods of time.
"It is all the pure blood of the grape," said our host; "Indeed it has to be, the Adulteration Act are so rigidly enforced here that, no matter how much growers may be tempted to transgress, they dare not do it. Not mind you that I imagine many would be guilty of such a thing, but knowing as we do, that European growers are not under anything like such strict supervision, we feel that our chance in the market of other countries is not an equal one. We have it on the authority of people competent to judge that some continental growers obtain far larger vintages than their vineyards could produce of pure wine, and realise that, under such conditions we cannot compete with them. We like competition and incite it, but we also like fair play, and demand that”.
Foreign Methods
“It is something more than disgusting to know that some of our very best wines are being sold at fancy prices, under foreign labels and that the more disposed of under false colours the greater the business that is being built up for middle men in other countries, while at the same time, it is doing nothing towards introducing the genuine article to the public as what it really is - good, pure, Australian wine. We may get a chance if preferential trade within the Empire becomes an accomplished fact: - we certainly have none now.”
"By the way, do you compete at the shows, Mr. McWilliam?" I enquired. "No. In common with most prominent growers, I have discontinued it. I used to win many prizes, but became disgusted with the methods or lack of method, rather, of those who conducted affairs. Anyone could, and still can, in many quarters exhibit a bottle or two of wine, it need not necessarily be from their own vintage, it may be from mine or anybody else's no questions are asked, and the prizes are awarded. I have advocated that every exhibitor should be compelled to show at his vineyard at least 500 gallons of the wine from which exhibited samples were taken and be able to prove to the satisfaction of duly appointed officials that he actually made the wine, but never have I been able to get such measures brought into force.”
Preserving Grapes.
Mr. McWilliam now showed us some grapes in very fine condition, which he claims can under his system be preserved all the year around. The stems were inserted in bottles filled with water the fruit hanging outside, and it was perhaps, singular thing and worthy of note that while the grapes were in full bloom and capital condition the leaves were withered and harmonised in colour with those on the vines in the open air. “It has been proved that grapes can be preserved by this system in darkness” said our host. "but here, as you perceive I have them exposed to the broad daylight and so far they have not deteriorated. I almost fancy that I can preserve and at the same time give them any flavour I may decide upon," he continued, "but as I have not yet completed my tests it would be premature to discuss the matter just now." The results of Mr. McWilliam's experiments will however be awaited with considerable interest.
Junee and Corowa
Ascending a rise, we obtained a glance of a panoramic view of the property, and very charming it looked as the warm sun smiled upon the thousand tinted autumn leaves, and the clean white buildings rendered contrast just sufficiently striking to complete an exceedingly pretty picture. Returning by another path, Mr. McWilliam conducted us into an enclosure, and introduced two beautiful tame kangaroos to our notice. They were scarcely half grown, and regarded us with friendly eyes manifestly pets and well treated. One is capitally depleted, standing upon a cask in one of the illustrations. After seeing Mr. McWilliam's property and hearing his views on the subject of wine growing, one is convinced that the Mark View Vineyard is conducted on the most up to date principals. It is one thing to merely grow a good vine, and an entirely different matter to produce a good crop and a good wine. The vines require constant attention, and to be successful in the industry requires thoroughness and method, and Mr. McWilliam possesses those two accomplishments. As a result his vineyard is a model which many other vignerons might with advantage follow more closely.
"I understand you also possess a property at Corowa?" I remarked to our host. "Yes, I partly own the Sunnyside Vineyard, containing 80 acres of vines, in that district." The Sunnyside Vineyard is also maintained in a splendid condition, and is equipped much the same as the Mark View Vineyard.”
Other Ventures
"Then you know" continued Mr. McWilliam, "I have a number of wine saloons in different country towns, and also supply a good many retailers, both in the provinces and in Sydney. My favourite venture, however, and the one in which I take most pride, is the "Continental Garden in Goulburn". The writer has not seen this innovation of Mr. McWilliam's but the following is a description given by a gentleman who frequently visits the garden: It is situated at the corner of Auburn and Vernon streets, and conducted much after the fashion of an upto-date refreshment garden on the Continent of Europe. The internal arrangements are simply charming - there are flower beds, rustic nooks, aviaries, vine-covered arbours and all the paths are beautifully tiled. The bar appointments and fittings are most elaborate, and Certainly would take a lot of beating-in any country. It is just the right place to drop into on a hot summer's day, for one can have either tea or coffee, with confectionery etc., cool temperance drinks or a glass of capital light dry Australian wine. A glass of wine costs threepence, or two friends can sit and have a chat over a pint bottle for the modest sum of sixpence. I do not know of anything more delightful than to stroll into a cool nook in the garden, when the thermometer registers 110 deg in the shade, order a small bottle of hock, claret, burgundy or sherry with some splinters of ice in it, light one's cigar or pipe, and have a cheerful yarn, for an hour or so with a pleasant companion."
"And is the place much patronised?" I inquired.
“To be sure it is, although there is accommodation for about 150 people, the place is taxed to the fullest capacity. I have travelled pretty extensively and have no hesitation in saying that I have seen no gardens to equal them in Australia. When in Goulburn, just drop into Mr. McWilliam's Continental Gardens and you will find what I say to be correct."
Memoirs of his children indicate that a temporary winery was constructed of timber and iron roofed near the site of the more robust cellars built later. The original crusher was powered by an apparatus that utilised a horse walking around a circular track. The original building was about 40 by 60 feet to which, later on, were added two side wings, one extending back 120 feet and contained a copper pot still and bonded spirit store, installed about 1910.
He applied for a Colonial wine licence in Auburn Street, Goulburn, in April 1906 and again in 1907 at a nearby site on the corner of Auburn and Verner streets. The original licence was not renewed in 1908. At the time of this original licence he gave up the Junee licence and successfully transferred it to James O’Connor. He possibly had an arrangement to supply his wines to the new and subsequent licensees. His Vigneron’s licence continued to allow him to sell from his Mark View cellars. The Goulburn venture was possibly a partnership with his brothers, Thomas and Crawford, who had licences in 1906-07 at 53 William Street, Bathurst, and 131 Regent Street Redfern, respectively.
In 1909, JJ moved his family to Goulburn. His sister, Maude, joined the Goulburn business, after leaving school and before her marriage to William Blakeway in 1915. The family leased a large home called “Cooyeal”.
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John James, or JJ as he is referred to now, was the fourth child and third son born to Samuel on the 17th June 1868 in the Sale district of Victoria. On the 20th July 1892, he married Elizabeth Aitken Dewer, domestic servant whose birth place was Markinch, Scotland, and was at the time, a resident of Beechworth and had emigrated in 1886. They were married by the Rev, Leonard William Lee in the Independent Church at Beechworth. Elizabeth was the second daughter of the late James Dewar, stone mason, and Janet Aitken Dalrymple who, with her son Robert, had just emigrated and joined her daughters at Beechworth.
Over a period of twenty one years they were to have a family of four boys and four girls. Jessie May, 29th April 1893 and Lawrence John Roy, 26th November 1894 were born at Sunnyside, Corowa. The next five were born at Junee, Maude Elizabeth, 14th July 1896; Douglas Lyle, 16th September 1901; Dorothy, 5th December 1903; Keith Stewart, 29th August 1908 and Joyce Thelma, 8th April 1910. The youngest, Glen Maxwell was born in Sydney, 3rd February 1914. It is thought that JJ made the move to Junee around December 1895 before he took up a Colonial Wine licence at the “Wine Vaults”, Broadway. (The old Junee road) His licence was granted in the Wagga Wagga licencing court and was to run from 10th January 1896, for 10 years, renewed annually. JJ had only accepted nomination to the committee of the Corowa and District Vine and Fruit Growers Association in November 1895 but resigned in April 1896 stating he was now a resident of Junee.
Following Samuel’s departure from Corowa in 1891, Sunnyside was left in the hands of brothers, John James and Thomas. In March 1894, the diary of a Mr. S F Anderson, New Zealand’s Government Viticulturalist, who visited Corowa, reported that
"Mr Herbert Lindeman took me to see this (Sunnyside) vineyard and introduced me to Mr McWilliam who had been a four year apprentice of his. It was with some pride that Mr Lindeman mentioned this as McWilliams winery and cellar (if I may call it so) done him credit, as well as the wines made by him. Although with over a hundred acres of vines his press house and rough galvanized iron shed turned out as fine a natural wines as Mr Lindeman, and he did not hesitate to acknowledge that all his knowledge was obtained from Mr Lindeman. Mr Lindeman on leaving said he was coming up again with a view of tasting and purchasing all McWilliams wine. That spoke for him as Mr L. doesn't purchase anything inferior."
"Of course McWilliams sold his wine after keeping it for a few months, but the quality of it was thoroughly established before it went out. Mr. Lindeman’s ordinary price was 1/6 per gallon and £4 - £5 per ton of grapes in purchasing from growers."
“On talking the matter over with McWilliams he said much the same thing as Mr Lindeman, cleanliness and closely watching the wine at fermentation seems to be the principal thing. What struck me about this place - was for a few pounds certainly not more than £80, about the cost of his shed, he managed to get along with that accommodation. Of course his casks were as good as Mr L.'s but his vats were very temporary. His press was also on wheels”
The McWilliam in charge of the cellar and vineyard was almost certainly Samuel's third son, John James - although his younger brother Thomas was also active at Sunnyside when not superintending the McWilliam Bros deep lead venture on the Corowa gold-fields. Both brothers would maintain amicable relations with the Lindemans and Thomas was also involved until he left for the Boer war, returning in 1902, he subsequently worked as a blender for Lindeman’s wines and later worked for Dr Fiacshi at his Mudgee cellars, held a wine licence in Bathurst, worked at Saxonvale in the Hunter Valley and finally before his death in 1926, worked again for his brother JJ at the Sydney, Alberta St. Cellars.
JJ and Thomas’s wines were not only sold to Lindeman’s wines but also sold from a wine shop on the property following JJ’s successful application for a Colonial Wine Licence in 1891 which was renewed annually until 1896. His brother, William, held one in Wagga Wagga at the same time, possibly with the aim of establishing a trade for Sunnyside wines independent of the hotels.
Junee had become the principal rail depot and junction to the western Riverina in 1883, much to the disappointment of Wagga Wagga. Arriving in Junee, JJ and family took up residence in the upstairs living quarters of a shop leased from the town’s publican and land developer, William Crawley.
The “Junee Southern Cross” newspaper advertised JJ’s wines in December 1897 and being available at the “Wine Vaults”, Old Junee road, Junee.
JJ and his brother Thomas entered Sunnyside wines in the 1897 National competition for district wines. They took 3rd prize ahead of Lindeman’s Corowa. Thomas was also entering Sunnyside wines in local shows in his own name and in 1898 he was awarded the principal trophy of the show, “a beautiful lamp” presented by Sydney merchants, Westphal & Clark, for a sweet unfortified white wine. The Junee Southern Cross of 17th September 1898 reported that “At the Albury Show, Mr Thomas McWilliam of Sunnyside, Corowa, was awarded first prize for Red Red wine (sweet), beating Messrs. Caldwell and company who were awarded second prize”.
The following year, one of JJ’s Junee wines won first prize in the Dry White, 1899 vintage class, of the Corowa show ahead of W. Chambers of Rutherglen and T. McWilliam of Sunnyside, Corowa. A report in the “Junee Southern Cross and Coolamon Advertiser” of the 24th September 1898 reported that JJ McWilliam had won first places in both Red and White dry wine classes of the Junee Show against at least two other competitors.
JJ’s interest in future grape growing in the Junee district is indicated in an article published in The Junee Southern Cross of 24th August 1898, wherein it referred to his negotiations with a Mr Heffernan and the possible leasing of 107 acres of his “Millbank” property. He had previously rented property from a Mrs. Liddens at “Silverwood” farm, about 5 miles south of Junee between the Harefield road and the railway line. This property had previously been planted by William Liddens and may have been the inspiration for JJ’s future plantings in the area. William Liddens had died in 1896 and this gave JJ the opportunity to make his first wines from the district. The “Junee Democrat” of the 22nd August 1899, reported that at the Corowa show in 1899, he was awarded first prize for his Junee made dry white, 1899 vintage, and that the wine was from grapes from the Liddens’ “Silverwood” property.
His successful application to the Wagga Wagga Licencing Bench for a Colonial wine licence in Junee, from 7th January 1901, as reported in the “Junee Democrat” the following day, seems a logical extension of the aim in further establishing outlets independent of the hotels.
His potential lease with Heffernan may not have eventuated as The Junee Southern Cross of 10 February 1903 indicated that he now had a vineyard and farm within 2 miles of Junee along the Harefield road which was planted 3 years before. The extensive article describes in details the layout and plantings on the property.
“The property is so planned that a site has been left in the centre for dwelling house. Just inside the (west boundary) fence is a row of Japanese plum trees, which this year have borne a splendid crop of fruit. An opening at right angles forms an avenue leading to the site for the house. On each side of the avenue are planted various varieties of orange trees including the celebrated Washington Navel and the Beauty of the Glen Retreat mandarin; and there is a little way back from the road a rustic arch, over which grape vines have been trained. The effect is very charming. The area towards Harefield has been laid out with table grape vines, and at first glance one wonders where the fruit is. Headed low, the leaves of the vines cover the heavy bunches of fruit and shade them and the stem of the vine also from the glare of the sun. Despite the aridity of the season the vines have born excellently good crops, in some cases numbers of very heavy bunches can be seen on the vines. The varieties include about 30, chief of which are Gordo Blanco, Champion Muscat, Black Muscat, Raisin de Dames, Ladies Finger, Uliade, Black Tuck, Black Champion, Red Prince, Black Prince, Chaisalis ,Virert, Doradilla, Centennial and others. The principal feature of the orchard behind this part of the vineyard are the peaches. Treated in a similar manner to the vines, the fruit can hardly be seen till the leaves are turned back when the size, beauty and luscious appearance of the fruit makes one's mouth water. The principal varieties are Elberta, one strongly recommended by experts for canning purposes, Aylett seedling, Globe, Shangia ,&c. For so young trees the crop is a particularly fine one."
"A garden has already been made around the home site, and the roses, which include the favourite Marschel Niel, Cloth of Gold, Celine, Forester, Crimson Climber and others are growing splendidly, whilst the flowers and flowering shrubs grace the beds. All look to be doing better than in many gardens in town where the plants have the advantage of daily watering. Apple, persimmons, pear, loquat, fig and nectarine trees are also planted, and doing splendidly. On the Junee side a large area is cropped with wine grapes, and there is a well established nursery for the rooted vines which together with some young fruit trees, are to be planted out during the forthcoming season, the land being already ploughed and partially prepared for their reception. Mr McWilliam has also made arrangements to purchase the adjoining 30 acres to extend his operations.”
“The value of the work done by the enterprising proprietor can hardly be overestimated. To the district and the town it means the nucleus for the establishment in the future of the wine-making, raisin-drying, and fruit canning industries here. If others would only follow in Mr McWilliam's footsteps, in modern systems of fruit growing, without a doubt there would be a large field for the profitable employment of many hands. Apart from such benefit, it might be mentioned that Mr McWilliam paid £10 per acre for the land, and property owners must realize that when land at that distance from town can command such a price, other land nearer has its value enhanced.”
At the time of this article, JJ was only the lessee but on the 8th August 1903, he purchased the 31 acres from Isabella Mary Stevens and probably had a lease on the adjoining 26 acres which was finally purchased from Ms. Stevens on the 13th March 1906. By this time he had completed his “Mark View” winery.
A further article in the “Junee Southern Cross” of 20th November 1906 details his property
“At the present time Mr. J. J. McWillliam's vineyard opposite the old show grounds is showing to great advantage, and presents an object lesson to all interested in the land. Everything is in fine order; the vines look healthy and strong, with indications of a record yield. On every available inch of territory the genius of Mr. McWilliam may be seen; he has everything marked and planned out for the future, and when all his little plans and ideas materialise, "Mark View" will be one of the finest properties in the State. It is intended to build a fine large house in front of the present cosy dwelling, runners have been planted here and there to create cosy little nooks, on the southern side of the house, land has been marked out for a tennis court, with a good large pavilion close handy; some new ideas are to be worked into this court, ideas which will be of immense advantage to the players. The cellar is some distance away from the house, and connected with it by the telephone. The water will be laid on to the whole property from large underground tanks at the rear of the cellar. The cellar itself is a fine solid structure, and when finished there will be ample floor space for very many years to come. Everything that has been done is permanent, and as the contemplated improvements are put in, nothing will have to be pulled down. It has been said by experts that the quality of the wine produced by Mr. McWilliam is second to none in the State, and this opinion is borne out by the many trophies carried off by it at shows all over the Commonwealth. The piece of land Mr. McWilliam has chosen is capable of producing anything, and the immense crops of the past will be exceeded by those of the future; for instance, 500 gallons of wine to the acre were got last year, and this year one piece of land is expected to yield 700 gallons to the acre. The crop of grapes is extremely heavy, and although a little damage has in places been done, the gross yield will not suffer to any material extent. The class of buildings on the place are both novel and original; the walls are composed partly of refuse from the gasworks, and form a substance as hard almost as steel; it makes beautifully clean firm walls, which white ants or other vermin will not touch. Looking out from the building above the cellar, one has an excellent view; rows of vines stand out like a regiment of soldiers, almost every house in Junee in visible, and the country can be seen all out towards Millbank. Although Mr. McWilliam has such a large area of vines in, other fruits suitable to the district are by no means neglected. Peach, pear, plum, apricot, orange, lemon, and other trees get attention, and last but by no means least, the almond tree. Mr. McWilliam considers the almond the most profitable of all trees; it is easily grown, inexpensive to work, gives a big yield, and there is always a good market. Mr. McWilliam is to be congratulated on the way he has turned his grass paddock into a magnificent orchard; it has been accomplished only by hard work, pluck and perseverance, and a through knowledge of the business. He has, luckily, had the assistance of Mrs. McWilliam, who is thoroughly practical and well understands what fruits are best adapted to their lands”.
A major article appeared in the “Town and Country Journal” of June 13th, 1906 detailing an interview with John James McWilliam.
The Mark View Vineyard, Junee
About a mile and a quarter from Junee is the vineyard of Mr. J.J. McWilliam. Situated upon the slope of a gentle rise, midst picturesque surroundings. It is one of the beauty spots of the district, and a most interesting place in which a visitor can spend a few pleasant hours.
Driving along the pretty avenue, bordered on either side by young orange trees, now rendering the air fragrant with the perfume of their blossom, we passed the owner's substantial, but only partially completed, residence, and continued our journey towards a fine building bearing upon the front, in bold letters the legend "Mark View Cellars, J.J. McWilliam, Advance Australia". Here we were fortunate in finding the proprietor, who was superintending the work of his employees. He assured, however, that he could spare time for a chat, and forthwith proceeded to show us over his property.
A Record Crop
"It is only 60 acres in extent, and my operations, in consequence, are very much cramped," he said, half apologetically. I have 50 acres under vines, and the remainder under grass - 26 acres of vines are bearing, and 21 acres coming on. I could do with another hundred acres nicely, and would put it all under almond trees (I have 300, as it is), for there is money in them, you know, £25 to £30 per acre being easily realisable, nevertheless, in spite of the small size of my property, I made 4,400 gallons of wine, and sold 2000 cases of grapes last year, and that is pretty nearly a record for the Riverina district - I mean at per acre of course".
"Have you been very long here?"
"Only six years," replied Mr. McWilliam, "but I've been wine-making all my life - began my career under Mr. Lindeman, and do not know a better man in the business in Australia but come for a walk around. This patch of vines, about 10 acres in extent.”
"I am devoting entirely to raisins: the species are Gordo Blancos and Sultaneas, and while I am on the subject, I may as well tell you that I believe this district to be the finest in Australia for raisin-growing."
Advantages of Cultivation
"You manifestly believe in fallowing, Mr. McWilliam," 1 remarked, noticing the newly turned furrows. "Certainly I do," he answered, "it is the first and last principle to be observed in growing fruit, and everything else. Work the ground continually, and keep it as fine as powder, and good results will certainly be obtained. I have heard our ground termed 'drunken soil', because it will absorb so much moisture, but the sun, given a broken surface, will draw the water up from a great depth and give everything a chance to flourish.
"I am scarcely original in my ideas," continued Mr. McWilliam, "and I admit I would like to turn about 2000 sheep in here to eat off the grass, and, if they took a fancy to a few vine leaves, I would not grumble”
We now paused outside the cellar building and our host pointed out that it was constructed, with the exception of the roof, entirely of a pise, composed of shale refuse from the local gas works, mixed with sandy soil. "Perhaps the best test of its suitability," Mr. McWilliam explained "is that the floor absorbs no moisture, and it has set as hard as granite, and therefore the composition is superior to bricks.
" Behind the building is a fine, underground tank, on the rise of a hill one of a series to be excavated later - the bottom being level with the cellar floor, so that the water can be run down by gravitation, and acts very conveniently for cleaning purposes”.
"In this cellar," said our host, "1 have stored, at the present moment, almost 10,000 gallons of wine. I foresaw some years ago that light dry wines would sooner or later be in demand, and have been making a study of them accordingly. I can also claim having been largely instrumental in educating public taste in that direction, and I will take this opportunity of saying that I was keenly disappointed at not having been afforded an opportunity of sending samples to Canada. Sir William Lyne had charge of the arrangements, you will remember, and it was very unfair to the growers that preference should have been given largely to firms simply dealing in wines. It, however, happens that I have very little wine for export, the local demand being pretty well as much as I can supply, but I do think that the industry generally has a right to expect fair play.”
Quality of Mark View Wines.
We now tasted some very fine light clarets, hocks, burgundies, sherries, etc., varying in age from one month to something over three years, and it was very interesting to note the effects maturing had exercised at the different periods of time.
"It is all the pure blood of the grape," said our host; "Indeed it has to be, the Adulteration Act are so rigidly enforced here that, no matter how much growers may be tempted to transgress, they dare not do it. Not mind you that I imagine many would be guilty of such a thing, but knowing as we do, that European growers are not under anything like such strict supervision, we feel that our chance in the market of other countries is not an equal one. We have it on the authority of people competent to judge that some continental growers obtain far larger vintages than their vineyards could produce of pure wine, and realise that, under such conditions we cannot compete with them. We like competition and incite it, but we also like fair play, and demand that”.
Foreign Methods
“It is something more than disgusting to know that some of our very best wines are being sold at fancy prices, under foreign labels and that the more disposed of under false colours the greater the business that is being built up for middle men in other countries, while at the same time, it is doing nothing towards introducing the genuine article to the public as what it really is - good, pure, Australian wine. We may get a chance if preferential trade within the Empire becomes an accomplished fact: - we certainly have none now.”
"By the way, do you compete at the shows, Mr. McWilliam?" I enquired. "No. In common with most prominent growers, I have discontinued it. I used to win many prizes, but became disgusted with the methods or lack of method, rather, of those who conducted affairs. Anyone could, and still can, in many quarters exhibit a bottle or two of wine, it need not necessarily be from their own vintage, it may be from mine or anybody else's no questions are asked, and the prizes are awarded. I have advocated that every exhibitor should be compelled to show at his vineyard at least 500 gallons of the wine from which exhibited samples were taken and be able to prove to the satisfaction of duly appointed officials that he actually made the wine, but never have I been able to get such measures brought into force.”
Preserving Grapes.
Mr. McWilliam now showed us some grapes in very fine condition, which he claims can under his system be preserved all the year around. The stems were inserted in bottles filled with water the fruit hanging outside, and it was perhaps, singular thing and worthy of note that while the grapes were in full bloom and capital condition the leaves were withered and harmonised in colour with those on the vines in the open air. “It has been proved that grapes can be preserved by this system in darkness” said our host. "but here, as you perceive I have them exposed to the broad daylight and so far they have not deteriorated. I almost fancy that I can preserve and at the same time give them any flavour I may decide upon," he continued, "but as I have not yet completed my tests it would be premature to discuss the matter just now." The results of Mr. McWilliam's experiments will however be awaited with considerable interest.
Junee and Corowa
Ascending a rise, we obtained a glance of a panoramic view of the property, and very charming it looked as the warm sun smiled upon the thousand tinted autumn leaves, and the clean white buildings rendered contrast just sufficiently striking to complete an exceedingly pretty picture. Returning by another path, Mr. McWilliam conducted us into an enclosure, and introduced two beautiful tame kangaroos to our notice. They were scarcely half grown, and regarded us with friendly eyes manifestly pets and well treated. One is capitally depleted, standing upon a cask in one of the illustrations. After seeing Mr. McWilliam's property and hearing his views on the subject of wine growing, one is convinced that the Mark View Vineyard is conducted on the most up to date principals. It is one thing to merely grow a good vine, and an entirely different matter to produce a good crop and a good wine. The vines require constant attention, and to be successful in the industry requires thoroughness and method, and Mr. McWilliam possesses those two accomplishments. As a result his vineyard is a model which many other vignerons might with advantage follow more closely.
"I understand you also possess a property at Corowa?" I remarked to our host. "Yes, I partly own the Sunnyside Vineyard, containing 80 acres of vines, in that district." The Sunnyside Vineyard is also maintained in a splendid condition, and is equipped much the same as the Mark View Vineyard.”
Other Ventures
"Then you know" continued Mr. McWilliam, "I have a number of wine saloons in different country towns, and also supply a good many retailers, both in the provinces and in Sydney. My favourite venture, however, and the one in which I take most pride, is the "Continental Garden in Goulburn". The writer has not seen this innovation of Mr. McWilliam's but the following is a description given by a gentleman who frequently visits the garden: It is situated at the corner of Auburn and Vernon streets, and conducted much after the fashion of an upto-date refreshment garden on the Continent of Europe. The internal arrangements are simply charming - there are flower beds, rustic nooks, aviaries, vine-covered arbours and all the paths are beautifully tiled. The bar appointments and fittings are most elaborate, and Certainly would take a lot of beating-in any country. It is just the right place to drop into on a hot summer's day, for one can have either tea or coffee, with confectionery etc., cool temperance drinks or a glass of capital light dry Australian wine. A glass of wine costs threepence, or two friends can sit and have a chat over a pint bottle for the modest sum of sixpence. I do not know of anything more delightful than to stroll into a cool nook in the garden, when the thermometer registers 110 deg in the shade, order a small bottle of hock, claret, burgundy or sherry with some splinters of ice in it, light one's cigar or pipe, and have a cheerful yarn, for an hour or so with a pleasant companion."
"And is the place much patronised?" I inquired.
“To be sure it is, although there is accommodation for about 150 people, the place is taxed to the fullest capacity. I have travelled pretty extensively and have no hesitation in saying that I have seen no gardens to equal them in Australia. When in Goulburn, just drop into Mr. McWilliam's Continental Gardens and you will find what I say to be correct."
Memoirs of his children indicate that a temporary winery was constructed of timber and iron roofed near the site of the more robust cellars built later. The original crusher was powered by an apparatus that utilised a horse walking around a circular track. The original building was about 40 by 60 feet to which, later on, were added two side wings, one extending back 120 feet and contained a copper pot still and bonded spirit store, installed about 1910.
He applied for a Colonial wine licence in Auburn Street, Goulburn, in April 1906 and again in 1907 at a nearby site on the corner of Auburn and Verner streets. The original licence was not renewed in 1908. At the time of this original licence he gave up the Junee licence and successfully transferred it to James O’Connor. He possibly had an arrangement to supply his wines to the new and subsequent licensees. His Vigneron’s licence continued to allow him to sell from his Mark View cellars. The Goulburn venture was possibly a partnership with his brothers, Thomas and Crawford, who had licences in 1906-07 at 53 William Street, Bathurst, and 131 Regent Street Redfern, respectively.
In 1909, JJ moved his family to Goulburn. His sister, Maude, joined the Goulburn business, after leaving school and before her marriage to William Blakeway in 1915. The family leased a large home called “Cooyeal”.
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